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Of all the drifts arising from fashion month, the four-week-long circuit of ready-to-wear shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris that ended last week, beating all others, was neither skirt length nor Neither color nor a borrowed reference. It dominated the runways in each city; It became so ubiquitous that it was almost a cliche.
Forget Street Wear. Sustainability was the hottest form of the day.
It began in New York City on September 10, was unveiled by Gabriella Hurst, and she said it was the first carbon-neutral fashion show, with prints from the old collection. On the same day, the British Fashion Council launched its Institute of Positive Fashion, which aimed to form an alliance that would set the standard for green businesses.
Two days later Gucci announced that its show would also be carbon neutral, and it would also offset all carbon emissions from its operations and supply chain.
In Milan, Missoni gave solar powered small lights by Olafur Eliasson during his show, and the Green Carpet Awards on September 22 called the city's show "the best in sustainable fashion".
The next day Kering, Gucci's parent group, is committed to complete carbon neutrality across all its brands and to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions by 50 percent by 2025. Later in the day, LVMH, Kering's biggest rival, has recently bought a stake in Stella McCartney (a company formerly a joint venture with Kering,which is noted for its green credibility) organized a news conference to discuss the progress of its LIFE program (LVMH Initiative for the Environment, established in 2012) and achievements in the climate sector. . It was the first public-facing event organized by the group, although it established its sustainability department in 1992.
Courage used his show notes to speak on the use of a new algae-based vinyl, "which uses 10 times less plastic than the classic material", and the fact that it made pyruku fish, a staple The skin of foreign skins was exchanged for Amazonian diets whose skin would otherwise be rejected.
Stella McCartney left a sheet (green) detailing the brand's much-appreciated history on each seat and achievements in the soles of recycled nylon, durable viscose, and biodegradable shoes.
Alexander McQueen replaced the old laces and tulle from the previous new collection. So did Alan. At Dyer, the set was made up of more than 100 trees, all later bound for community gardens. In St. Laurent, the generators needed to drive 414 spotlights that speckled the show were powered by biofuels. In Louis Vuitton, a note states that the plywood set was bound for recycling.
"It's turning into a competition," said Barak Kakam, dean of fashion at Parsons, during a party at the end of the entire shebang hosted by the fashion of the business.
Introduced in late August, Pact brought together 32 groups from high fashion and fast fashion - though not LVMH - to implement the change (their own selection) to address its environmental impact.
To understand what a dramatic change this is, consider the fact that the Copenhagen Fashion Summit was the first major conference dedicated to fashion and sustainability, and when it was established in 2009, people still "vegan" and The words "Echo" were confusing. And "organic."
Even a few years ago, the brands were reluctant to pronounce the word "sustainability" for fear of being accused of greenwashing, and thought nothing of sacrificing flower fields for the Instagram effect. Now, all of a sudden, they can't stop talking about it.
As for why, well: "It is clear that sustainability has become a very important issue not only internally, but also externally, so we decided to be more vocal about it," Mr. Arnault said in a phone call earlier this week.
And really, what's wrong with it? Even if the inspirations are mixed - consistency as a blood sport! - Even brands are careful to make everyone believe they are (to quote the hashtag on Victoria Beckham's Clean Beauty line) #Note, the end result is positive.
right?
to a certain extent. But exploiting fashion's self-interest in the service of a climate crisis is undeniably beneficial, the fact that it is happening in such pieces, potentially confusing for shoppers. Isn't carbon offset just another way to keep overloading? This great material is made from recycled fiber, but now how do we recycle them?
Does this not create a constant quirk of questions about the industry's ability to put the planet ahead of production?
Especially given the fact that fashion has a record of embracing issues, from general to poetic to guidelines that each company makes for itself, and then seems to examine the box and move on. it occurs.
In New York, casting agent James Scully posted an Instagram story in which he received reports from the model about the fittings lasting 11 hours and casting lasting overnight.
"I'm getting upset about how much I'm hearing from girls that things are going backward," he wrote.
Sarah Ziff of Model Alliance said in an email recently that she felt the same way. He said, "A year later, the news cycle has shifted, to talk about sexual harassment and model assaults, and praise for the Model Alliance's work and results program, and they still haven't signed on." ," They said.
The problem is when it is up to each brand to establish its own guidelines and accountability for its own behavior to police becomes a closed-door issue. Or at least it appears that way. Why should climate change be any different?
If real, systemic change is going to happen when it comes to fashion and sustainability (or fashion and inclusivity, or fashion and oppression) - and if it is to be trusted by people buying more products than marketing - then industry forms Full participation is needed not with many examples that ultimately do more than just illuminate the goal, but by agreeing on the best way forward.
By assigning a measure of that to a coherent and outcast third party, or group of third parties.
And with every fashion city on the table addressing the elephant in the room when Fashion Week arrives - the simple fact of their existence in four countries, encouraging thousands of people to fly from country to country and then into a fleet of black cars Join and drive for several hours a day - instead of dying with each other to see who can pull the green crown.
It is also true that brands are built based on differentiating themselves and their perspectives from each other. And there is a vested economic interest to maintain the status of Fashion Week in those cities.
But, as William McDonough, co-author of "Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things," said, "If you want to design ecosystems, the first thing you have to do is ego-system management." Everyone wins.
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